The Muscle Car Guy Podcast

So today I decided to make a list of my top 10 muscle cars. Rather than going with the fastest, rarest or what ever other criteria to pick by, I just went with my favorite ones. Please listen along as I list my favorites, and why they are my top 10 muscle cars. Here is a list of them in pictures: #1 - 1969 Dodge Charger #2 - 1969 Hurst Olds #3 - 1970 GTO Judge #4 - LS6 Chevelle               #5 - AMC SC/Rambler #6 - Fox Body Mustang #7 - 1987 Buick GNX #8 - Boss 429 Mustang #9 - 1970 Buick GS Stage 1 #10 - Plymouth Road Runner

Today I talk about car brands that were around during the muscle car era, but are no longer here. I talk about AMC, Mercury, Oldmobile, Plymouth and Pontiac. To email me, pat@themusclecarguy.com If you want to help support the podcast and you buy from Amazon, go to www.themusclecarguy.net/amazon to use my affiliate link

Just a quick podcast today to say hello and give an update of my future plans. You can reach me at pat@themusclecarguy.net To find me on iTunes, go to www.themusclecarguy.net/itunes If you would like to help with funding for the podcast, you can buy stuff from Amazon through my affiliate link www.themusclecarguy.net/amazon

Today is a special podcast for me, I had a suggestion from listener Ryan about what to look for when buying a muscle car. You can see the show notes at www.themusclecarguy.net/47 I go over what numbers matching means, and thinking about what you want your car to be. I also talk about making sure you understand what it is like to drive an older car.   For rust, I talk about some gadgets I have heard of to help find body filler.  I will give a few Amazon links to show what I am talking about.  I don't have any experience with these, but they seem to have good reviews:       And the stud sensor I mentioned (I have no idea if it will really help find body filler, but it sounds like a good idea)   And remember, it may be cheaper in the long run to buy a finished car for more money, than to buy one that needs a lot of work.   You can email me at pat@themusclecarguy.net if you have any suggestions on buying an old car, I would love to hear them.

Today I talk about marketing, and what to look for and at when you are looking to buy something. And where to go to find more information about a product to see if it is really what you want. And the most important thing, keeping what you want in mind, as that will be different than what someone who posts in a forum or a web site may want. You can reach me by email at pat@themusclecarguy.net and I would love a review in iTunes at www.themusclecarguy.net/itunes You can reach my site post for this episode at www.themusclecarguy.net/46

Today I want to talk about forced induction.  That means superchargers and turbochargers. First the Roots blower.  Blower is the correct term, as it just blows air faster than the engine can use it and builds boost like that. Blower and a beautiful car Plus they look and sound cool. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uWqdAb_nOow The screw type superchargers work similarly, but they actually compress the air inside the supercharger, making them more efficient. Turbochargers are driven by the engine exhaust rather than by a direct connection to the engine, so when you don't need them, they are just there.  That also means, that you have more complex exhaust plumbing to deal with, and you can have lag until the turbo kicks in. The centrifugal supercharger works like the compressor half of a turbo, but rather than be driven by the exhaust, it is driven by a belt.  There are also ones that have variable drive ratios so they can make more power and low and high RPM, since they usually don't make as much at lower RPM. With turbo chargers, there are ones that can change the geometry of the turbo on the fly, so it can act like a small turbo at low RPM, and a big one at high RPM so you don't get lag at low RPM, or have the turbo not be able to keep up at higher RPM. With using a turbo for forced induction, you can run with one or two turbos.  Assuming they are sized correctly, there really isn't any performance difference.  Although with twin turbos, you could run dual exhaust. There are also set ups that use two different sized turbos, a small one for low RPM and a big one for high RPM.  When the RPM goes up, the small one is bypassed. A quick note on electric superchargers.  Most of them are crap.  The cheap ones just use a fan that is probably not able to push enough air to do any good.  There are a few kits that are good for short term boost.  So the worse they make it sound in, the closer to reality it probably is.  Also Audi is coming out with an electric boost set up on one of their diesel engines.  What it is designed for is for the split second before the turbo can start creating boost. I would love comments at pat@themusclecarguy.net Check me out on iTunes at www.themusclecarguy.net/itunes

Today I talk about Nitrous Oxide.   Check out the show notes at www.themusclecarguy.net/44

Today I talk about cast vs porged pistons, crankshafts and connecting rods.  View more at www.themusclecarguy.net/43

Check out the show notes at www.themusclecarguy.net/42

Today I am going to talk about how to get more power to the ground with your muscle car, and that is by working with traction bars to reduce wheel hop and change the twisting motion of the differential and springs into downward force. First of all, if you are not familiar with what I mean by traction bars, here is what they are: These are universal ones, which may or may not work well on your car, but it gives you an idea what they are. What traction bars do is to take the rotation of the differential housing, and uses the bumper or snubber on the front of the bar to push against the spring eye to stop the rotation.  That force is then used to push down on the differential since that force has to go somewhere and it helps push down on the tires. Another option for traction bars are the caltrac type of bar.  They work on a similar principal as the regular traction bars, but do so fir more adjust-ability and better use of the force to keep the spring from twisting. And the pinion gear doesn't climb the ring gear, it is just Newton's third law that for every action there is an equal and opposite reaction.  To show this, just try loosening a tight bolt with a good creeper and not have your feet on the ground, you will just turn. Another option than using traction bars is to use spring clamps on the front portion of the spring together to stiffen the spring in the front so it won't twist as much, something like this: Here are the links I mentioned in the show: Traction Bars diagrams Make your own Caltac bars You can reach me at pat@themusclecarguy.net

Today I talk about looking a forgotten classics for project cars.  See more at www.themusclecarguy.net/40

Today I talk about manual vs automatic transmissions Check out the show notes at www.themusclecarguy.net/39

Today I talk about the 426 Hemi.   Check out the show notes at www.themusclecarguy.net/38

What does a supercharged Jaguar and the Millenium Falcon have in common?  Listen in to find out. More notes at www.themusclecarguy.net/37

Today I talk about how much it costs to paint a car. More show notes at www.themusclecarguy.net/36